A day in the huerta

A day in the huerta

Last night I was talking with Adrian (Flaco) during dinner, when he arrived back in Garzón with a bunch of plant starts (plantitas). He told me that Gioconda had said I could work with him in the morning, doing planty things. I was surprised since I had heard none of this (naturally), but was pleased with the idea of doing something I understand for a change.

I had had a frustrating day. The worst part was that during the dinner prep shift, which only a few people work, one of my tasks was making the 5 minute eggs for Mai and Gabi’s stations. I was fairly sure in the directions that Maira had given me for how to make them. But when I went into the pasteleria to start boiling the water on the hot pad/induction thingy, Nacho (Nacho 3 or Nacho Pastel, not sure which nickname I’m going to use) told me that you always do it a different way. So even though I was pretty sure what he told me wasn’t what Maira told me, I defaulted to his knowledge. Wrong-o! When Gabi came in to check some things, he looked at the 30 eggs, which I had already peeled, and told us they were overcooked. He reiterated that it should be done the way Maira had said, and so I did it all again. Yippee. No one was angry or upset at all, except me with myself. It was also frustrating because it put me way behind on the rest of my prep, so when the team did show up, I felt like it looked like I had done nothing. 

I was bumming hard at dinner and waited until most people had eaten to go outside. I found a less obvious place to sit and eat. Fiona came out with some desserts, one of which was extra chocolate ice cream that she said was only for me <3 .="" aria-haspopup="true" class="goog-spellcheck-word" id=":z.11" role="menuitem" span="" style="background: yellow;" tabindex="-1">nbsp

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Anyway, being outside on working in the dirt felt good today. I got to finally plant up the garden boxes that Nacho and I made. They are really just as aesthetic thing, but still nice. I planted them full of herbs and tomatoes, everything super close so that it looks lush, but of course you wouldn’t actually do if you were trying to cultivate things properly. 

Then I transplanted more herbs into pots to be put in the restaurant and outside. Gioconda likes to rotate the plants around the restaurant, so they have time inside where guests can admire them, but also time outside where they can get sun. 

In the afternoon, Flaco and I transplanted a ton of oregano around a tree in the backyard of Francis’s new (remodeled) house just down the street from the hotel. Flaco is great. Like Nacho 1 (the hippie) and Gabi, he is really good at talking to me in spanish that I can understand. He is really friendly and feels trustworthy. He is also Francis’s main gardener at his house in the sierras. 

Our conversations really illuminate how different life is here than in the States. For him, and many people, being happy while you do a job is more important than doing a job efficiently. (The way we were transplanting things was very uruguayo aka inefficient.) I tell him this is not true in the States, but that I think he is right. I also tell him how part of the reason I’ve come here is to learn how to live more free, like him and Francis. He likes this and laughs.

But as for me, I don’t understand why you would do something that will just cause you more work in the future because you don’t have the right tools or a concrete plan. He just tells me it’s like a magic trick: you don’t know how it works, but it does.

Cocinando con Gabi

It’s Christmas, but it doesn’t feel like it. Everyone was up far too late and/or drank too much last night, so the morning was rough.

But it was a good party. I “talked” more with people, and am feeling more comfortable in my interactions with the ones I’m not as close with. The people I am most close with, aka the ladies, I had a good time with. Dancing with Euge, lots of hugs and drunken earnest confessions of friendship from Mai. It was sweet.

Today I was stoked to make some more ñoquis. Unfortunately, I messed them up. The dough (masa) was too soft (blando), and I could barely roll it out. Gabi tried to help, but eventually we just said ‘ciao’ to most of the dough. If I understood correctly, I used too much egg and not enough cheese. Won’t make that mistake again! It was so frustrating. However, the little bit I managed to shape cooked up alright, so not a complete loss.

After lunch, Sol asked me to make a slaw for dinner tonight, and when I finished, I could come into the kitchen. I think I’m officially now Gabi’s prep person. I helped him assemble his three plates for the few orders we had for lunch. Gabi is in charge of the ñoquis, the milanesas, and the merluza negra (fish). 

It feels like a lot to remember, but at the same time, it’s not really. It’s more that I’m just so nervous about messing something up. And getting instructions in another language obviously makes it harder. There was a lot less pressure in assembling salads than in cooking meat and pasta. I know I’ll have to resign myself to messing something up badly again in order to learn.

Gabi is ridiculously patient with me, if I haven’t stressed that enough. He stays on my case to keep a cloth rag and tongs on hand at all times for touching things safely around the stove, always asks if I understand, and makes me try doing it myself before I feel ready. I don’t think he has the ability to get angry.

Oh, I haven’t mentioned this yet, but I finally saw the menu. The prices are astronomical. Like insane. I could not believe it. For the meat, ok yes, understandable, but for the veggie entradas (gazpacho will run you more than $40) …….. well, I won’t say anymore. I will make them for you, friends.

Not sure how busy tonight will be, but tomorrow, the insanity starts. I’m scared, especially if I’m going to help cook main dishes. I’m definitely not typical chef material. I like to do things slowly, purposefully. I haven’t quite gotten into the ‘sense of urgency’ stride that is needed in the kitchen. But it’s adapt or die here!

And now it’s siesta time before dinner shift.

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Just a quick check in after dinner. I did some appetizer prep with Gabi at the beginning of the dinner shift, making an eggplant (berengena) dip and watching Gabi make a roasted beet (remolacha) dip/sauce/thing. He helped me with these things so that I could get them done faster and be in the kitchen with everyone. So I was on point to help him with the main courses during dinner service. It’s definitely higher stakes than I would like, but obviously I’m not going to say no to anything they throw at me.

Nacho Pastel has started calling it the “Cocinando con Gabi” show (Cooking with Gabi) since he explains everything very simply to the noob that is me. Gabi also doesn’t let me look at my notes. He wants me to just do it and ask questions, which is probably the best, but against my cautious nature. 

The team is very very encouraging, always complementing what I do well, and understanding that they know I can do better when I do mess up. I told Gabi today that I thought it takes a special type of person to be a chef, and mimed rapid cutting and exactness. He told me he was a disaster when he first started, but that a chef just needs to be clean, fast, and organized. I told him that I am none of those things!

Tomorrow, Maira and I recommit to our more exercise and less alcohol plan!

Feliz navidad

So it’s the night before Christmas, and I’m sitting in Casa Barrales, trying to talk with Euge as she gets ready for the fiesta. She always talks super fast and with a lot of slang, but has a decent amount of patience with me aka laughs a lot. She is not, however, really not good at explaining words. Often this happens:

Euge: blah blah blah pavo!

Me: Que es pavo?

Euge: Pavo? Pavo! Pavo es pavo! Pavo! hahaha!

But she’s funny and good hearted. Really, everyone here is. I like everyone.

I’ve been helping more with prep for Gabi now, which has meant milanesas (breaded steaks) and ñoqui (gnocci). I really like doing the ñoquis. I did this mornings batch by myself (but with Gabi beside me, directing me). Then I was in the late crew that stayed to prep for dinner but wouldn’t stay to work it, and I made the ñoqui all by myself. It turned out pretty good except they needed more salt. I’m discovering my method of rolling out the dough evenly without overworking it.

One of my main challenges is that I’m still slow at a lot of things. I know I’ll get faster as I do it more, but I think occasionally Sol get exasperated, in a nice way though. Like tonight with my ñoqui: I hadn’t finished by the time the Mai and Diego had finished their prep. When Gabi came back for his dinner shift, he said I could go, but I insisted on finishing my work, which he appreciated. I think Sol respected that, but kept reminding me that I needed to leave

Ah, the sound of fuegos artificiales! I guess fireworks are a thing for Christmas here. 

Gabi is probably my favorite guy to talk with now. When it’s just the two of us, he is good at speaking slowly and clearly. He also is good at keeping the concepts simple so I can understand, but occasionally throwing in an idea that is more difficult, and then we have to ask someone else to help us. Fiona is always a good person for this. 

The Mendoza crew really loves Gabi. They have all told me that he has a very good heart, more than most. He is so much like a puppy. He runs around really fast from place to place in the kitchen, with a slightly frantic but positive energy, and when he forgets something he needs for his task, he will say, exasperated with himself, “que boludo!” (I don’t have a grasp on this word yet. Sometimes it’s an insult, sometimes its a term of endearment.) When he’s not working directly on a task (e.g. cutting something) and is just moving around the cocina, he moves in a floppy way that is like a puppy whose body is growing too fast. 

We actually had a decent conversation today about food and travel. He spent last navidad in Thailand, where he lived for a year (I think) because his dad was working there. He liked it, but didn’t really like the food much. I think this is largely because he has a shellfish allergy, which definitely would dampen my spirits in southeast Asia, as it greatly limits what you can eat. He told me he ate sandwiches from Seven Eleven every day, and I laughed and told him that’s terrible because as a chef, he should eat better.

Mai and I have gotten a lot closer too. A benefit of Octavio replacing me is that Mai misses having me help her, so she’s more affectionate with me. Plus he try to work out every day together. (This does not happen in reality.)

Last night, a car full of us went to Jose Ignacio and had dinner at La Huella, one of the best restaurants in Uruguay, so they say. I believe it. It is super tasty, and they do some nice things with vegetables and seafood, which is refreshing for me. This meant that we got back super late though. And the night before we socialized too, so I am reaching my limit today. I need a recharge.

I was really hoping that the navidad party was going to be in the hotel tonight after it closed, but I think it’s just here at Barrales. Our room is just off the kitchen, which is a hot spot for hanging out. Also, really annoyingly, our door doesn’t have a mechanism for staying shut, so it’s always swinging open from wind or animal. I want to socialize, but only to a certain extent tonight. Maira feels the same. I think the party will stay mostly outside around the fire though.

Outside, they have started roasting a lamb, crucifix style, perhaps a subtle homage to Jesus. 

Merry Christmas from another world!

Feeling a bit blue

Monday night, 21 December

I’m laying in my tiny bunk, alone in the housing I think. A thunderstorm just began so I think people are probably waiting out the rain at the hotel. But I’m trying to enjoy the solitude, though it’s hard because it’s not really solitude when you know that at any moment, someone could walk in. 

Today was a rough day. Not that anything particularly difficult happened; just that it was a bit of a slump.

Over the past few days, team cocina has grown by 2. There is Nacho (I think I mentioned him already) and Octavio. Unfortunately, the arrival of Octavio, who has a lot of experience, means my demotion. I think I’m officially just a prep cook now, which is totally fine and makes sense, but it’s a bit of a let down since I was actually plating things before, which was exciting. I totally respect the kitchen hierarchy and am down to be a prep cook, all I’m saying is that I feel a bit like a slightly deflated balloon.

I did get to spend the morning helping Gabi make gnocchi though, which was fun. Apparently, when a woman learns to make this gnocchi, it means that she is ready to get married. I am definitely not ready because my gnocchi are bien feo (aka really ugly). I also helped briefly with a few milenesas (breaded rib eye). 

When the lunch rush started, I was basically forgotten in the back. (Again, this is fine, I’m just telling it like it is.) It was interesting to hear all the tickets coming in and organized chaos in the front of the kitchen. I kept to my parsley, garlic, and mint prep. Sometimes Maira’s area would be slow, and she would come kick it with me.

Around 4:30, once lunch stuff was finished, Sol told me that I just needed to keep doing prep until 6-7 then I could be done for the day since they didn’t need me for dinner. This would have been more useful yesterday when I got invited to go to Jose Ignacio by Ivan, but oh well. There was a ton to prep though, so I worked till about 8 before Sol told me stop.

This does lead me to a bit of conundrum. I want to make it known that I want to be in the kitchen and learn how to cook (especially with the fire and stoves), BUT I also want to respect that the high season is maybe not the time to be in the way, slowing people down. 

Evidence for one side: Agustin told me that last year, there was a Mexican guy who came to learn some stuff, but got stuck doing a lot of prep. Gioconda told Agustin one day that she didn’t understand why he didn’t get his prep done faster so he could be in the kitchen. So you need to show that you want to be there.

Evidence for the other: In one of our meetings last week, when she and Francis were discussing how we are shorthanded, she was explaining that she had scheduled the other people to come later because that is when there is time to learn. And even just the two times that Gioconda has been in the kitchen helping cook, she has been super intense/seemingly stressed, which is not when you want to pepper people with questions. And everyone else’s english is very limited, which makes for even more of a nuisance when they are trying to get a lot done in a rush.

So… what to do, what to do? Feel free to leave your opinion.

Of course, the obvious answer would be to tell Sol that I want to learn whenever it is convenient, but I understand that now is not the time. However, my spanish isn’t good enough to convey the subtleties associated with that. My spanish doesn’t convey ANY subtleties. 

Which leads me to another bummer factor I’ve been dwelling on: It is really hard to make meaningful connections when you can only express the most basic ideas. Actually, overall, I think I’m doing ok at this, but I just wish it could be better. When I’m one on one with someone, it’s a lot easier. But one on one isn’t a thing here. People here are super social all the time, and when everyone is together talking (fast and in slang), I am simply a silent observer, not a participant. I don’t mind this since it’s good to listen even though my comprehension is low, but it’s strange to feel alone surrounded by people.

I admit that I’ve given in a bit in the last couple days and talked more to Gonza (the other American, but who speaks Spanish, too) and Agustin, from team salon, who speaks the best English, just so I could feel a little more connected to someone. 

I also miss California more than I care to admit for many different reasons. The produce (SERIOUSLY), my friends, the conveniences, having privacy… anyway, I won’t think about it too much. 

Also, it's like Star Wars doesn't exist here.

Anyway, I have faith that today was just a slump, and things will get better.

Here we go again!

So I’ve been in Uruguay since December 1 and in Garzón for almost two weeks. Wow, can that be right? I have no sense of time anymore. I can’t say if it feels like more or less. More like I am just existing in space.

I had 3 full days in Montevideo before heading to the campo. I stayed with Biz and Joe, an American couple who work at the American School. Biz is a friend of Anna, who I worked with at Frog Hollow. They were great: took me to yoga, gave me a room and keys so I could come and go, gave me recommendations on what to see. I also met up with 3 local couch surfers to learn more about the city etc. They all spoke good to really good English. Sebastian, a total artist/hipster, was really funny, and I would definitely hang out with him again. 

Then it was on to Garzón! I wanted to just get a ride here with Biz and Joe on Friday after work because they were going out this way to go camping, but Gioconda, the manager, said it would be better if I came Saturday with Ivan, the head waiter, and Nicole, the jefa del salon. So I needed a place to  stay Friday night since Biz and Joe were heading out. Gioconda put me in touch with Ivan. I kinda figured that since he was someone in charge and was offering me a place to sleep, he would be older. Nope!

Side note: I am one of the oldest people working here! Only 2 are older (aside from Gioconda, the manager, and Sol, the head chef): There is Nacho, a 36 year old Argentinian hippie, who has known the Mallmann family for a long time and worked for them in different capacities. And there is Fiona, the pastry chef, who is 31. Everyone else in the worker housing is between 20 and 26, with 24 probably being the average. Definitely makes me feel a little old.

We live in a semi-run down/semi renovated house 2 blocks from the restaurant called Casa Barrales. Flies and mosquitos abound. I’m in a room with the 3 other girls in the house, in tiny bunk beds. Fiona, the pastry chef, and Maira, cocinera, are both from Mendoza, Argentina. Eugenia is the 20 year old from Montevideo. Fiona has a nice ‘mom’ vibe about her and is good at explaining things. Her main nickname is Gorda aka Fatty, which is ridiculous because in the States she definitely would not be. Even here, she’s not. But that’s the Latin American way. They aren’t shy about things like that. Maira is more serious, and I initially thought she would be standoffish because she is super pretty and fashionable, but really, her personality is probably quite similar to mine. Eugenia is basically Skipper (as in Barbie).

The other 11? people in the house are dudes. However, there really is zero privacy here and almost everyone has a significant other, which makes things a lot easier in terms of potential drama.

I won’t detail who everyone is now, but once the whole team arrived (a few days after I did), I finally got my team assignment finalized: in the kitchen. So this is team concina:

-Maira (Mai), leading the entradas (first course/appetizer stuff) who I will be mainly assisting

-Fiona (Pastel or Gorda), queen of the pasteleria (baker and desserts)

-Diego (Fidel), also part of the Mendoza crew, who will work mostly in the fires

-Gabriel (Gabi), also Mendoza, I haven’t figured out his place exactly but maybe a little less with the wood oven and more with the wood stoves

-Gonzalo, a 26 year old American from San Francisco, who it is actually very likely that I met at some point at the ferry building market because he was a chef at Delfina who bought from Frog Hollow a lot. He will be working a lot with Diego.

and

-Ignacio (Juani—there are already 2 other Nachos so we can’t have a third) who just arrived because we are super short handed and will be helping Fiona.

AND of course Sol, the jefa, though she hasn't been  in the kitchen with us really. Not sure if that’s normal or not. We will see.

I’ve heard different things, but most likely it will get crazy right after Christmas. One person told me that a lot of who comes here are rich Brazilians, but they have to spend Christmas with their family, but not one second longer. Then it is go go go until about January 20. By the end of February things start to chill out. Most of the crew will head out around then. The only people I know who are staying for the whole season are Diego and Gabi. 

It’s great that I can stay longer because I think it won’t be until February or later that there will actually be time to learn (more interesting) things about cooking/grilling.

What have I been doing mostly? Basically I am a prep bitch! Someone’s gotta do it, and I’m the obvious one. Today, for example, for most of the morning I prepped the shrimp (this is obnoxious) and herbs for the gazpacho and salad. 

However, things are quite different here than in a normal restaurant setting because there is NO LINE here. I don’t know much about restaurants obviously, but I’m pretty sure this isn’t normal. Not only is there literally no line in the kitchen for assembling things, but we all do all of our own prepping and plating (as far as I can tell). The kitchen is basically a square with a big island in the middle (that just got a huge piece of marble on top of it). I really have no idea how this is all going to work, and really probably no one does yet.

They are still finishing the remodeling of the whole restaurant. When I first got here, it was practically a skeleton, but they’ve really pulled it together. However, today they were welding on the porch outside, and we have our first real reservations tonight soooooo yeah. Still a ways to go. 

Right now everyone is a ‘momenta de siesta.’ We have a few hours off today in the afternoon before we cook for the evening. If you’re wondering, ‘oh will that be normal?’ the answer is: Who knows! We generally don’t know what tomorrow will be like. I really cannot stress how much of everything is up in the air. It’s incredible. I should be napping too, but thought I’d try to write up a little.

Ciao!